In the last few days of 2008, expats living in Malé appeared to have three main choices for their new year’s eve celebrations: a dry night out watching some local DJs, heading over to the airport hotel for their shindig, or getting away to one of the resorts with friends and family.
We joined a table of expats by the pool at the airport hotel, and had an enjoyable night out. The buffet was excellent, but the hotel management could learn something from Hanoi’s C.A.M.A. crew about drinks vouchers and DJs.
Your $66 ticket gave you just one standard drink, and after that the bar would only take vouchers — and would not give you any change. Twice I went to the bar to buy beers with a $20 voucher, ordered two beers, and both times I was told I had to buy four. It’s hard enough paying $10 for two Lions, but being told you had to buy two more and let them go warm because they won’t give you change is just plain stupid.
The Sri Lankan DJ told us it was his third new year’s eve playing at the airport hotel, and he played pretty much what you’d expect from a hotel DJ anywhere in the world — up until midnight. Not long after the countdown, and the lucky door prizes, the DJ seemed more interested in playing old Sri Lankan folksy favourites for his mates on staff. The best track he played all night was from British/Sri Lankan act M.I.A., a nice surprise until he pulled it off about a minute into the song.
Not long after midnight, the DJ started announcing that the last ferry to Malé left at 1.30. Repeatedly. The staff quietly stopped selling drinks vouchers, and the bar staff wouldn’t take cash, if you were lucky enough to get their attention. The message was clear. Go home.
Things were worse for those who’d chosen to stick around on Malé. There were a couple of events planned for the night, with local DJs and bands. However, early on in the night, word got around that the police were going to shut the events down at the request of the religious ministry. The minister of Islamic Affairs, Sheikh Mohamed Shaheem Ali Saeed, said it was haram for men and women to dance together and asked the police to step in. Although the events went ahead, the rumours got around and the high numbers of police at the events kept the punters away.
There are quite a few local DJs based in Malé, most of whom make a living playing out at the resort islands. Telling Maldivians that music events are haram is like telling them they can’t eat tuna — it’s how the country makes its money. This is the contradiction at the heart of the modern Maldives, a country struggling to maintain its Muslim identity while it lives off the income of luxury beach tourism. And tuna fishing.
Suggested viewing: Rachid Taha’s cover of “Rock the Casbah”. With added Mick Jones.
